Glass Bedding Sako Around Recoil Bolt

Berbagi

The X-Bolt has a better factory trigger, a better factory recoil pad, an excellent safety with a bolt unlock button, and a simpler magazine system than what is on the A-Bolt. Both the A-Bolt and X-Bolt are factory glass bedded, both rifles have f ree floating barrels, are hand chambered, with target crowns, and both rifles have a 60 degree bolt. Pillar and epoxy bedding my Sako .375 (Picheavy). Here is the stock prior to bedding. The front cross bolt is where the recoil lug bears against. Not clear but just to the left of the hole and in line with the hole is a raised portion, mini triangular shaped, this was removed with a Dremel as were the two raised portions in the front of the.

Pin on Guns/Hunting

I am locating a cross bolt to install into a custom stock for a Mauser. i am unsure whether to install the bolt so it makes direct contact with the action's recoil lug, or to move it back 1/4 inch or so and steel fill glass bed the distance between the cross bolt and the recoil lug. it's going to be a 9.3 X 62, so it will be a moderate kicker.

Glass bedding sako around recoil bolt. Place masking tape over the recoil lug. Placing tape over and around the recoil lug creates a small gap, which ensures the easy release of the action from the stock. Wrap the top, bottom, and sides of the recoil lug with two layers of masking tape. Cover the front and back of the recoil lug with two layers of masking tape. The Tikka T3, Sako A7 and Savage Axis have a floating aluminum recoil lug which needs special attention during bedding. The front face of the recoil (facing the forend) is the only surface that should contact the action, other faces must be relieved. Any links to glass bedding ,or bedding , Also I Will research on the good ole internet , codliveroil, Feb 1, 2012 #3. have is a pair of stock bolt studs. When getting ready to separate the stock and action, you pull the stock hold down. The community is full of anglers from around the State of Washington, who are ever helpful and willing.

The X-Bolt is available in four versions: Hunter, Medallion, Composite Stalker and Stainless Stalker. All wear Browning's new Inflex Technology recoil pad, which, in addition to soaking up recoil, is designed to deflect the direction of recoil forces away from the face of the shooter. The recoil force will travel through the barrel to the lug and finally into the stock. If the rifle's bedding is sloppy and the lug to stock contact is not solid, the friction of the stock to action contact is all that keeps the barreled action from slipping in the stock, which will cause the lug to bear on the stock. Some of the older Sako,s used a cross bolt through the stock that engaged the action and. it seems like the T3s tend to be a little less stable and reliable than other rifles with more substantial stocks and recoil lug/bedding methods. Anyhow, by all means get a Sako metal recoil lug in that thing and then see if it'll shoot.

I'm wondering if there isn't a bedding problem with this gun. When I got it, there were two 1x1 inch pieces of paper shimming the barrel. I took those out, but ended up adding some shims back, which did help a little. Is it unheard of for a Sako to need glass bedding? I'm so frustrated with this gun that I'm about to sell it and get a Savage. 1) The Sako 85 bedding system works well - when it works 2) Bedding a Sako 85 does not seem to hurt it, and may even improve it marginally 3) So far, bedding over the recoil plate (as long as the recoil plate is bedded first) seems to be OK 4) Sako 85s do not like a lot of tension (screw torque) on the rear action! Has anyone here bedded a Sako 85 action in a wood stock? The reason I ask is that, with the 85's strange recoil lug arrangement (a metal plate that lies flat in the stock), I don't see how the usual pillar- or glass-bedding techniques could be applied.

Most of the time, glass bedding a modern bolt-action rifle is relatively simple and straightforward. However, there are occasionally a few problems. From what I've seen over the years as a gunsmith, the most significant problems relate to either failure to apply release agent to the metal or forgetting to fill holes or machine cuts in the. The next best thing is to install a bedding block made of the same material in a synthetic or wooden stock. It offers the same advantages as glass and pillar bedding, but since the block runs the full length of the action, it increases the rigidity of the receiver. It also serves to increase the strength and rigidity of a stock at its weakest. Should the Sako be bedded similarly to a Mauser with clearance under the recoil lug? Should I glass bed the area around the stock reinforcement bolt so that the entire back surface of the lug is evenly supported? What other bedding advice can you give me for a vintage Sako? Below are photos of the rifle.

If that was to be the case then bedding things would make no difference. Basically, what you have there is the same principle as was used by early Sakos and Mausers with their cross bolt. In those cases the recoil lug of the action beared directly on the bolt and the cross bolt had the effect of tansferring forces to a bigger area of wood. Around ¼" of the barrel at the tip of the stock fore-end should be bedded in resin to produce a concentric point of tension. When setting up the stock for fore-end bedding, a small piece of card should be placed between the underside of the action or barrel block and stock. When the barrel is seated in resin, the card will cause the barrel to sit. The next range session showed promise with 1 -1.5" groups, so I had the action pillar and glass bedded, binding mag box fixed and replaced the dry rotted recoil pad with a Pachmayr White line. It's a great shooter now with consistent 1/2-3/4" groups. Restored rifle pic below.

The rifle can now be prepped for bedding. The bolt and trigger are removed from the barreled action and the steel is degreased (I wipe it down with alcohol on a clean rag). Only the rear surface of the recoil lug should contact the bedding. The sides and front of the recoil lug are taped to accomplish this. I agree, for a simple bedding job, I could do it myself. But if I were to get a new stock I would get away from Sako's (or Beretta's) cost cutting, convoluted recoil lug design and go with the Rem lug style, and would have it professionally inletted, pillared and bedded. This guy takes bedding to a different level.

The LSS chassis with UBR stocks. (Customer photo) enough